A corner of Siena that you don't expect
Walking through the streets of the historic center, just a few steps from Piazza del Campo, suddenly it feels like you are being watched, a statue solemnly watches over the passersby: it is Sallustio Bandini, a prominent figure in Siena's history and a precursor of the modern economic system. His figure stands in the midst of the Siena of bankers, Piazza Salimbeni: one of the symbolic places of the city, of relationships and the financial history of Italy. You call it by name, but the Sienese know it as "Piazza del Monte" and that name already tells it all. What captures the eye is the solemnity of the buildings that surround it, once belonging to rich and influential families and today part of the headquarters of the oldest bank in the world, the Monte dei Paschi di Siena.
Before this square, there was only a slope
Looking around, it is surprising to think that, less than two centuries ago, this square did not exist. In its place was Costa Salimbeni, a narrow and steep slope that, starting from via Montanini, bordered on one side Palazzo Tantucci and on the other that of the Spannocchi family, until it reached the portal of the Salimbeni complex. Only during the 1800s did the Sienese architect Giuseppe Partini transform this space into the elegant city living room that we cross today.
Three buildings, three stories to discover
Palazzo Salimbeni: enter where time has stopped
The first building that catches the eye is Palazzo Salimbeni. You feel its imposing presence even before understanding why: it was built in the 14th century on a pre-existing castle, leaning against the high medieval walls of the city, and still today bears the weight of that history. Moving towards the back, you can see one of the two original towers and the ancient Fondaco dei Salimbeni, standing there for centuries, motionless while the world changed around them. Crossing that threshold reveals something greater than a simple building: the headquarters and the Historical Archive of the Monte dei Paschi di Siena, and the Museo San Donato, which houses an artistic collection not to be missed, created to honor the Institute. Those rooms are open only for a few periods during the year: if you happen to be there at the right moment, don't leave without having admired them.
Palazzo Tantucci and Palazzo Spannocchi: nobility facing each other
Before leaving the square behind, take one last look to the left where Palazzo Tantucci rises, which has changed its appearance several times over the centuries: a noble residence, then Palazzo della Dogana, today bank offices. A silent story, written entirely in stone. On the opposite side stands Palazzo Spannocchi, belonging to the eponymous family of bankers and merchants who left their mark well beyond the borders of Siena. Among its most notable members is Ambrogio Spannocchi, who served as treasurer alongside Pope Pius II. A story within a story that once again reminds us of the importance of this city in the history of European finance.
